Spudtech Forum

what size barrel do you use to shoot golfballs?NT
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Author:  Spudtech [ Thu Jul 03, 2003 8:00 pm ]
Post subject:  what size barrel do you use to shoot golfballs?NT

Originaly posted by beartracker89,

Author:  Spudtech [ Thu Jul 03, 2003 9:00 pm ]
Post subject:  Ideally 1.5" SDR21....

Originaly posted by Rocketbiker,
This is the best pvc to use so far, but it's hard to find. Boogieman found some, and someone here is selling it for around $3 a foot I believe, but I can't remember who.
1.5"SDR26 also works well. It has around a .03" larger ID than the SDR21. I found this size at Ace for about $5 for 10'.

Now if you're willing to work for it, there is another way. I know it's a lot better fit than the sdr26, but not sure about how it compares to sdr21 since I've never seen the stuff in person. I know when done right it's nearly a perfect fit. I've even had some older golf balls that were too big. I guess they had swollen. But I checked one of these in my SDR26 and it still had room to spare.
It's been posted before, but if you're interested just ask, I'll give you the details. It is a good bit of work though.

Author:  Spudtech [ Fri Jul 04, 2003 3:00 pm ]
Post subject:  sure i would like to make the tighter barrel (NT)

Originaly posted by beartracker89,

Author:  Spudtech [ Sat Jul 05, 2003 7:00 pm ]
Post subject:  Sleeved golf ball barrel revisited....

Originaly posted by Rocketbiker,
Ok, here it is but be prepared for some hard work.
First you'll need a length of 2"sch40 the full length of the intended barrel. This will need to have about a 3/4" section sliced out of it from one end to the other. The 3/4" is an estimate, best way to get the exact size is to use a "ring" of 2" and remove a little at a time until it can be squeezed around a golf ball and the ends touch. Don't keep it squeezed long when testing or it will deform and make it harder to use for a template.
Once the barrel has been split longways it can be squeezed into a second length of 2"sch40. There are several ways to do this. The way I did it first was the most obvious way to me but it was probably the most neandratholic way. I used a hose clamp about 2" from the end to get it started and then as it slid in I would loosen the clamp slide it up a few inches and tighten it again. But around 3/4 of the way in this didn't help anymore. I since built another and I just used 2 outer sleeves. One from each end. Much easier to assemble but you have to worry about twist. If you don't force it in perfectly straight the seam will have a bend in it right in the middle. It can be straightened, but it'll take 2 people or a bench vise.
I hope this'll get you started. Feel free to post any questions, or look for me on AIM --> xxrocketbikerxx

Author:  Spudtech [ Sat Jul 05, 2003 7:00 pm ]
Post subject:  Oh yea...

Originaly posted by Rocketbiker,
The best way to cut the split evenly in the 2" is probably a table saw with some sort of guide setup. I used a plexiglass scoring tool, which is basically a sheet metal hook. Personally the next one I do is going to be cut with a dremel with a spiral saw bit and a router adapter and some sort of straight guide clamped to either end.
Also when using the small piece of 2" to get the size figured out try it in another section of pipe to get a feel for how well it's going to fit there too. PVC tolerances are good but nothings perfect, some manufacturer's ID's may be tighter than others.

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